THE LAMAS OF DHANKAR
GOMPA
Sudarshan
Krshnamachari was associate professor of Ancient Indian History in the Madras University
at Chinnai. Even though he belonged to a chaste Brahmin family, he was an
ardent Buddha follower and had done lot of research in Buddhism.
Sudarshan
was orphaned in young age and brought up by his
maternal uncle. He was a brilliant
student, which made him eligible for the government scholarship and pursue his
interest in academics. At the age of twenty seven he was appointed as assistant
professor in the Sri Radhakrishnan Government College, Chennai.
Sudarshan
was an introvert, mostly glued to books. His contact with the outside world was
limited to an hour he gave to reading newspapers in the morning. After college,
he gave most of his time studying Buddhist literature and visiting Buddhist
shrines during vacations.
He had studied all the five sects
of Buddhism in general but he believed in the doctrines of Theravada sect, which gave an individual, freedom to find his own way to
enlightenment and Nirvana. He was also convinced that Buddha was a normal mortal
who attained enlightenment and should therefore be respected but need not be
worshiped. He supported the sect’s doctrine of non-proliferation of families of
deities.
Sudarshan didn’t believe in the
re-incarnation theory and hence his heart remained away from the Mahayana sect even though it was
the largest sect of Buddhism. Perhaps his childhood struggle
inculcated the survival instinct in him that believed in self effort.
But his real
interest lay in Tantric Buddhism.
Its mysticism fanned his curiosity towards the sect. He always wanted to have a
closer look at the followers of this sect and if possible undergo some of its
rituals.
Tantric Buddhism is a mix of Indian
Buddhism and Tibetan beliefs, which came to recognition in the seventh century.
This form of Buddhism varies from other forms of Buddhism. The Tantric
Buddhists worship by reciting prayers and sacred texts, along with chanting of
hymns. They meditate sitting in circular formation signifying the shape of the universe.
The lamas blow trumpets, play drums and dance wearing masks while performing rituals
to scare away spirits. They extol the supernatural by mystical incantation, which
endows them with magical charms. Tantric Buddhism
exists in the Indian regions bordering with Tibet and Nepal. Sudarshan found
out from the web site of Himachal Pradesh Tourism that there was an ancient
monastery dating back to eleventh century in the Spiti Valley. It said the
monastery was on the left bank of a Pin River resting on an overhanging cliff. Sudarshan
was overawed by the pictures and the account of the monastery. He wanted to
find out more about it and decided to visit it.
Sudarshan
submitted a pilot project to Madras University seeking financial support for
leading a study group to the monastery. Unfortunately, the Head of History
Department of the university was a known atheist with leftist leaning. He mocked
at the proposal and quashed it out right.
“The
proposal doesn’t mention specific area of research. It will be sheer waste of
time and money. We cannot support such flimsy proposal.” The Head of the
History Department wrote on the file.
Sudarshan
was determined to visit the monastery. He learnt that July and August were the
ideal months when the weather in the valley was moderate. He applied for leave; sold his car, the gas
oven and his refrigerator; the only material assets he possessed and left on
his mission in the last week of July without waiting for the formal sanction of
the leave of absence he had applied.
A
week later, Sudarshan was in the Indian Institute of Advanced Studies, Shimla discussing
his project with Dr. Awasthi, the Chief Librarian of the Institute.
Dr.
Awasthi was impressed by Sudarshan’s enthusiasm and dedication and allowed him
to access the archives of the Institute for the furtherance of his research.
The records narrowed the area of research to the monastery referred to as
Dhankar Gompa, built in the eleventh century.
Dhankar
Gompa is about two hundred kilometres from Shimla. An inner line permit is required
to go beyond Rampur Bushair, a small town village on the bank of Sutlej River. Sudarshan
discussed the matter with Dr. Awasthi who assured to help him getting the
permission.
Sudarshan
took the morning bus from Shimla to Pooh and reached there by late evening. He
purchased some dry fruits and biscuits from a local shop in Pooh and the next
day took the bus going to Samdoh and further to the ancient town of Tabu. The
road is narrow and hazardous, fraught with the risk of frequent landslides. Luckily, Sudarshan was in Tabu by late evening
without much hassles.
Sudarshan
had carried a letter of introduction from Dr. Awasthi for the local school
teacher with a request to help him in his project. The school teacher told him
that a truck of the Public Works Department was likely to go to ‘Dhankar’ village
in couple of days. The contractor who was also staying in the school agreed to
give Sudarshan a lift to the famous monastery.
It
was beginning of August, the summer month in the Spiti valley. Days were warm
and bright but there were still snow humps on the shadowed patches. The valley
was however getting lively with trees getting new green coat and locals coming
out of their houses along with goats and yaks.
Tabu
monastery is on a plateau. By its side is a government school and little away
is a picket of Indo-Tibet Border Police.
Sudarshan had lively discussions
with the head lama of the monastery but noticed that the he was not willing to
discuss the tantric practices known or exercised in the monastery.
“Isn’t
it true that a sect of Buddhism practices tantric powers and some of the lamas
were bestowed with supernatural powers?” Sudarshan asked the head lama.
The
head lama just smiled without responding. Sudarshan could not elicit any
information from him on the subject.
Sudarshan stayed two days in Tabu monastery,
talking and discussing various aspects of Buddhism with the monks there. He
spent one evening with the officer in charge of the ITBP post who was a very willing
host.
“For
how long have you been here,” Sudarshan asked him.
“Almost
three years and hopefully should be out of this sector in couple of months.”
“Have
you heard of any miracle; anything that may suggest anyone of the monks
possessing supernatural powers?
“We
are under strict orders not to interfere in the matters of the monastery. I do
see some patients coming to the monastery for treatment but what they do or how
they treat them, I have no idea.”
Sudarshan
was disappointed by the detachment commander’s non-committal answer.
“Our
boys go to Sumdoh Army MI room,” the officer added after a little pause.
Next
morning Sudarshan took a lift from the truck going to Dhankar village, which is
at an elevation of 3800 metres in the Spiti valley on the bank of Pin River. It
is a small village with a head count of less than hundred.
The
village chief spoke little bit of Hindi.
“A
new monastery has been built on the plains of the Pin River. The scrolls and
other scriptures have been shifted to the new monastery,” the village chief said
and then added, “This has been done for the safety of the devotees since the
path leading to the old monastery is hazardous. Moreover, the old monastery is
in a dilapidated condition.”
“I
want to visit the old monastery,” Sudarshan told the village chief.
The
village head stared at Sudarshan. “No one is allowed to visit the old monastery,”
the village chief sounded crotchety.
Sudarshan
deemed it proper to let the matter rest at that point and decided to take it up
with the senior lama of the new monastery.
Next
day Sudarshan went to the new monastery and spent nearly the whole day there.
His interest and knowledge of Buddhism impressed all and sundry. At the close
of the day he went to the senior lama and requested him to permit him to see
the old monastery.
“It is in a rundown condition. The walls may
give in any time. We don’t take risk.” The senior lama told him.
“I
am writing a book on ancient monasteries. It will be incomplete if I don’t
include Dhankar Gompa in my book.” He pleaded.
“We
don’t allow non Buddhists to enter the old monastery. Besides, one should be a
member of our order.”
“I
am devout Buddhist even though I was born in a Brahmin family. I have presented
more than twenty papers on Buddhism in the international seminars. And if you
insist, I willing to convert; accept Buddhism right now.”
“What
is your area of interest?”
“I
am working on the tantric powers of your sect. I understand Dhankar Gompa was
one of such centres of Tantric Buddhism.”
The
head lama paused, gave Sudarshan a hard stare and then closed his eyes. Both
sat motionless. The senior lama looked in a trance like state as Sudarshan sat waiting
expectantly for a favourable outcome.
“Good.
Come here before Sun rise. Make sure you have no camera, no recording gadget
and no pen or paper,” the senior lama said with a feeble smile.
Sudarshan
nodded quietly and left with a bow.
Sudarshan
could not sleep that night. He wanted to structure his audience; frame a set of
questions in his mind for seeking elaboration from the lamas of the ancient
monastery. Next morning Sudarshan reached the new monastery where the senior
lama was waiting for him. “Come let’s go to the river,” he told Sudarshan.
The
water of the Pin River was cold; colder than the ice water from a fridge.
“Take
out all your clothes and have a dip and stay in water until I ask you to come
out,” the senior lama told him.
Sudarshan
obeyed. As he entered the water, he felt as if his body was shrinking. He
remembered his childhood days, when he used to dip in the village pond, naked.
But then he was one of the many children and the water was very comforting.
It
seemed to him as if the clock was moving slow.
“May be, the
senior lama has forgotten that he had ordered someone to remain in the freezing
water. Well! if this is going to be the end of my mission and my life, let it
be. He
thought.
Sudarshan
was on the verge of collapsing when the senior lama appeared.
“Death
is of the body; the soul is imperishable,” The senior lama spoke as he came
near Sudarshan. And then after a little pause, he handed Sudarshan a white cloth
sheet to wrap around and signalled him to follow.
They
walked quietly to the old monastery ascending the cliff hanging over the Pin
River. Sudarshan was overly frightened to walk over the terribly narrow path with
gorges on either side.
“Fear
visits when desires supplant the mind. There is no fear if you desire nothing,”
the senior lama spoke.
Has he read my
mind?
Sudarshan was surprised by the lama’s words.
They
entered the monastery. Sudarshan was gleefully happy.
I am close to accomplishing
my mission. He thought.
Inside
the monastery was a giant Buddha statue with oil lamps lit all around in glistening
golden pots. On one side were few bhikshus
sitting in a circular pattern on woollen mats meditating and behind them was a Lama
sitting on a podium.
He
was the head lama of the old monastery.
There
was a mat lying unoccupied. The Head Lama beckoned Sudarshan to sit on it.
Sudarshan
was still naked with the white sheet wrapped around him. He was uncomfortable
but his mind was agog, expecting exhibition of some supernatural powers.
“Supernatural
is something to be experienced within. It’s
not a matter of exhibition. It is within you, don’t seek it out side.”
The Head Lama spoke looking at Sudarshan.
Was it
telepathy? How was he able to read my mind? Sudarshan was
surprised once again.
“Meditate
and seek answers to all your queries from within,” the Head Lama spoke with a
smile this time.
Sudarshan
closed his eyes. He feigned meditation. He was a near atheist; never had gone
to any temple in his adulthood.
Suddenly
he sailed into his past. He remembered the banyan tree of his village temple
and felt that he was sitting on one of its branches. Then he felt the banyan
tree was taking him through his life journey. He saw his mother waiting with
his clothes after his bath; his father holding his lunch plate; he saw his friends
in his school ground. And then the banyan tree took him to his college and to
the college where he taught. He saw all his folks and friends receding beyond
the skyline.
Sudarshan
was shaken. He opened his eyes and saw himself sitting on the woollen mat inside
the Dhankar Gompa monastery.
Then
his eyes got closed and felt the mat he was sitting on was getting warmer. Soon
it became unbearably hot. He started sweating profusely; the white sheet of
cloth fell off his body.
Thereafter
he forgot everything; his personal life, his people and his ambition. Nothing
existed but a cool blue light before his eyes; blissful and serene. All his strains
had disappeared; there were no questions, no doubts remained in his mind. There
was a smile on his gleaming face.
Sudarshan
felt he was levitating in the air.
The
Head Lama came down from the podium and gave him a golden rob to put on. Sudarshan
wanted to stay for some more time in the monastery in front of the large Buddha
statue but the words wouldn’t come to him. .
“You
can stay here until evening prayers,” the Head Lama told him without his
asking.
Sudarshan
was not surprised now.
He
bowed before the senior Lama and the Head Lama. He shared lunch with the
inmates and then joined the evening prayer with other bhikshus. After incanting of mantras was over, there was absolute
silence.
Everyone
in the monastery took his seat and started meditating with eyes closed.
Sudarshan followed. It was a genuine effort on his part this time.
It
was blissfully quiet, pin drop silence in the monastery. Sudarshan had no idea
how long it was. He experienced a glowing light passing in front of his eyes and
when he opened his eyes, he saw himself sitting in front of the Buddha statue.
And
then he realized he was all alone. There was not a single human being in the
monastery. Sudarshan smiled. It reflected his inner happiness.
He
came out of the monastery.
It
was pitch dark outside save the twinkling of the stars high in the sky. Walking
alone in the dark over the dangerously precarious path didn’t bother him not
did the Pin River, swishing past the rocks.
He
crossed the river devoid of fear and walked to the lodge he was staying in the
Dhankar village.
Next
day Sudarshan was on his return journey. Travelling past the valley, he was reflecting
over his experience at the Dhankar Gompa Monastery and debating within himself.
Was my mission
successful?